< University of Manchester, Lexis of Cloth & Clothing Project, Search Result For: 'doublet'

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The Lexis of Cloth and Clothing Project

doublet

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Searchable Lemmata: dublet (AF), duble (AF), dublettus (L), duplicium (L), doublet (ME), dwbled (W), doublet (OScots), doublat (OScots), dublet (OScots), doublet (MdE).
Alternate Forms: dubelet, doublette, dubletta, dubletum, dublet, doblet, dobelet, dobbelet, doubeled, dowblet, doubeletis, doublettos, dublettas, dublettis, dupletum.

    Definitions and Defining Citations:

1(n.) Garment; close fitting upper garment worn by men; frequently quilted, waist-length or hip-length, worn with or without sleeves, primarily from the fifteenth century onwards. Also a similar garment reinforced by mail and worn under armour (as pourpoint); a reinforced upper-body garment. Fourteenth-century references to the 'doublet' and the 'doublet of defense'/'doublet of fence' usually refer to the reinforced or militaristic garment, while in the fifteenth century, the word could refer to either a militaristic garment or (more frequently) to the non-militaristic one.(circa 1200 still in current use)
1. [97] ... sindonis: cheince ... [98] ... mataxa: serence, hechele ... flamea: cheinse ... [99] ... colaria: colers ... consuendum: decustre ... duplici: duble ... inaures: hournemens de orailis Gloss. [AND TLL (ii 97-99) ante 1300]
2. i doublet ... de velvet fur’ satyn Legal. [AND RotParl1 (iv 420) post 1400]
3. [43] ... supertunice de worsted' ... lineate et reversate ... [44] ... ad faciend' ij doublettos pro rege de panno viridi longo frettat' cum rubanttz stuffat' cum tela de Reyns (KR Ac 391/15); (cf. ib. 45: ij doublettos frounciatos) Accounts. [DMLBS Arch. (XXXI 43-44) 1349]
4. ad numerum x personarum modo guerrino arraiatarum et armatarum, viz. loricis, palettis, doublettis de defenso ... Accounts. (worn as armour) [DMLBS Pat (375 m. 27) 1406]
5. [37/1] ... Also a gowne of gray russet furred wit Ionetis and ... wylde Catis ... [37/2] ... A furre of beuer and oter medled ... [37/3] ... A Doubeled of defence couered with red Leþer ... A Hewk of grene and other melly parted Legal, Wills. [MED EEWills (37/1-3) 1418]
6. [101] ... super cooperatura et cloutacione jakks et dublets vj dubelet, valor xiij s. iiij dublet ... [106] ... xxv mantel de bogee, valor vj li. ... [107] ... iij litz de sarge, valor iiij li. ... [108] ... j. bale, contenu .lxx. coverlitz dit eperling Accounts. [AND Port Bks (101-108) 1427/1430]
7. ITEM [10] it is ſtatut þt na ȝemā na common to landart' wer hewyt clathes ſiddar na þe kne na ȝit ragyt clathes bot allan’ly centynal ȝemen in lord' houſis at rid' wt gentill mē þar maſt’is þe quhilk' ſal haf narow ſlewis 7 litil pok' 7 ryt ſa þt þe cōmōis wif' ... wer nouþ’ lang taił na ſyde nekit hud' na pok' on þar ſlef' na coſtly curches as lawñ or rynß 7 all gēntill mēis wif' be not arayit excedand þe eſtate of þar huſband' ITEM Be þe awyß of þe haill p[ar]liamēt it is ſtatute and ordanit þat ilk man þat may diſpende ȝerly xx liƀ or at has jc liƀ in movabil gud' þat he be wele horſit 7 haill enarmyt as a gēntill mā aucht to be And vþ’ ſympillar of x liƀ of rent or l liƀ in gud' haif hat gorgeat or peſañe with rerebraſar' vambraſar' 7 gluff' of plate breſt plat panß 7 legſplent' at þe leſt or bett’ gif him lik' ITEM þt ilk ȝemañ þat is of xx liƀ in gud' haif a gude doublat of fence or ane habergeoñ ane yrn hat witħ bow and ſchefe ſuerde buklar 7 knyfe And all vþ’ ȝemeñ of x liƀ in gud' hif bow and ſchefe ſuerde and buklar and knyff And þe ȝemā þat is nane archer na can not deyll witħ a bow ſall haif a gude ſou’ hat for his hede 7 a doublat of fence witħ ſuerde 7 buklar 7 a gude ax or ell' a brogit ſtaff Legal. [LexP Acts Parl. Scot. (II: 18-19, items 10-12) 1429]
8. volo quod dupletum meum de fensi [l. defensi] vendatur Wills. (worn as armour) [DMLBS Test. Ebor. (II 85) 1442]
9. 3e bide no besynes of bedis, bot to þe body clethe ... 3e may cast 3ow to be coynt ... Soft serkis of silke 3oure sidis vm-loke, Doubeletis of damaske & sum of dere tars Heroic, Historic, Poetic, Romance. [MED Wars Alex. ((Ashm 44) 4670-4673) circa 1450]
10. [p. 227] Off ffyne cordewan’, A goodly peyre of long pekyd schon hosyn enclosyd • of þe most costyous cloth • of Crenseyn’ þus a bey to a jentylman • to make comparycion With two dosyn poyntys of cheverelle • þe Aglottys of syluer feyn’. A shert of feyn holond • but care not for þe payment A stomachere of clere reynes • þe best may be bowth Þow poverte be chef • lete pride þer be present And ałł þo þat repreff pride, þou sette hem at nowth. Cadace • wolle • or flokkys • where it may be sowth To stuffe with-al þi dobbelet, and make þe of proporcyon Two smale legges • And a gret body • þow it ryme nowth ȝet loke þat þou desyre • to An þe newe faccion. A gowne of thre ȝerdys loke þou make comparison' Vn-to ałł degrees dayly •þat passe þin astat A purse with-outyn mony • a daggere for devoscyon’ And þere repref is of synne • loke þu make debate With syde lokkys I schrewe þin here • to þi coloere hangyng down’ to herebrowe qweke bestys þat tekele men onyth [p. 228] An hey smal bonet • for curyng of þe crowne And ałł beggerys and pore pepyłł • haue hem on dyspyte ... A beggerys dowtere to make gret purvyauns To cownterfete a jentyl woman’ [...] Here colere splayed • and furryd with Ermyn calabere or satan’ A seyn to selle lechory • to hem þat wyl bey And þei þat wyl not by it, yet i-now xal þei han’ And telle hem it is for love • she may it not deney. Biblical/Hagiographic, Drama, Poetic. (dating uncertain) [MED Ludus C. ((Vsp D.8) 227-228) ante 1475]
AF, ME, MdE, OScots, W.
Sex: Male    Status: n/a    Rank: n/a    Ceremonial: No
Body Parts: Back, Chest, Shoulder(s), Waist.
2(n.) Garment; lining (of a shield); also used figuratively to describe protection or a covering.(1430 - ante 1475)
1. Le duble (var. dublet) fause de l’escu Heroic, Poetic, Romance. [AND Ipom BFR (8995) circa 1180]
AF, ME.
Sex: Male    Use: Military    Ceremonial: No
Body Parts: N/A.
3(n.) Garment; artificial or counterfeit jewel; this could be made of two pieces of coloured enamel, crystal, glass, or similar, cemented together; small ornaments for clothing in the Great Wardrobe (primarily 14th century).(circa 1245 - post 1500)
1. ubi fuit kamacu [sc. in morsu cape] appositus est modo lapis rubeus dublettus [cf. ib. 479: dubletus rubeus] ... de capis minus preciosis: ... capa alia ejusdem [Nicholai] vetus est de panno serico, ut dicitur, imperiali cum pavonibus et arboribus contexto, capa Roberti de C. est de imperiali cum leonibus sine morsu ... cape de indico sameto Accounts. [DMLBS Invent. S. Paul. (478) 1245]
2. justa argenti deaurat' nigell' cum dublettis (cf. ib. p. 344: zona magna de serico cum apparatu et lapid' dublett') Accounts. [DMLBS Ac. Wardr. (p. 342) 1300]
3. magistro Hugoni pro lx doublett' emptis pro ymag[inibus] B. Marie Accounts. [DMLBS KR (Ac 502/17) 1355]
4. une botoner de flouredelys de perles de vij. pieces, de quel faillont vj. greyns de rubies. ... un fermail d’or ové ij. braces et ij. mains et iij. perles ... ij. balays, iij. saffyrs et ij doublet Accounts. (citations from individual page of text may not be in original order) [AND GAUNT1 (ii 112) 1372/1376]
5. une pomme ronde, a ung croix par dessus, a une piece se terant sur blanc ... ung dyademe garny de trois doublés de Venize rouges, ... , ung doublet pers semblable a saphir plat(citations from individual page of text may not appear in original order) [AND Bedford Inventories (B105) circa 1389/1435]
6. Doublettys of glas yeve a gret evydence, That Thyng counterfeet wol faylen at assay Poetic. (work: a1449) [MED Lydg.Horns ((LdMisc 683) 13) circa 1475]
AF, L, ME.
Sex: Male    Ceremonial: No
Body Parts:

    Etymological Evidence:

Definite, From Old French doblet, doublet, something folded or lined (with fur); double + the diminuative suffix -et. L duplicium and AF duble derive from forms related to double.
WF:
Etym Cog: doublet (OF).
References: