< University of Manchester, Lexis of Cloth & Clothing Project, Search Result For: 'burled'

[University home]

The Lexis of Cloth and Clothing Project

burled

.
Searchable Lemmata: burlé (AF), berle (ME), burled (ME), burled (MdE), barruly (MdE).
Alternate Forms: burelé, burelee, burellé, burlee, burlid, burrlé, burulé, burullé.

    Definitions and Defining Citations:

1(psp.) Manufacture; striped.(circa 1300 - post 1420 ?)
1. Ore cuchez un tapit cointe e burlé (var. burellé) Poetic. [AND BOZ Char (89) circa 1305]
2. A serpent in þe selue place, hyr tail burlyd with skalis siluer-shene Heroic, Historic, Poetic. (work: ?c1421) [MED Lydg.ST ((Arun 119) 3219) ante 1450]
3. Sylvyr and aseure berle [with an orle of] vij or ix merlettys gowlys Other. [MED Bk.Arms in Anc.3 ((Hrl 2169) 201) circa 1460]
AF, ME, MdE.
Sex: N/A    Ceremonial: No
Body Parts: N/A.
1b(adj.) Decoration; heraldic term, equivalent to barry 'divided into an even number of parts by bars of alternating colours'.(post 1250 - circa 1350)
1. Le counte Waldemond, burlé de une grosse burlure d’argent et de sable. Accounts. [AND Eight Rolls (46.2) post 1250]
2. Bele baniere ... De argent e de asur burelee O la bordure poralee Tout entour de rouges merlos Accounts. [AND Eight Rolls (105.171) post 1250]
3. Le Counte de la Marche porte l’escu burlee d’or et d’azeur [AND Dean Tract (61) circa 1350]
c.f.: barry
AF.
Ceremonial: Yes
Body Parts: N/A.

    Etymological Evidence:

Speculative, The word may well be ultimately derived from bur(r)e (q.v.) 'coarse hair, cloth', via its diminutive burel 'coarse cloth' (q.v.). It is first found in continental Old French sources c. 1235 (in Huon de Mery's 'Li Tournoiemenz Anticrit': 'bis burelées'). Some dictionaries (e.g. Tresor de la Langue Francaise) derive it directly from burel + adjectival suffix, thus, bur(e)lé 'having the characteristics of burel' came to mean 'striped'. However, it is not at all clear that burel was of this nature; see citations and discussion s.v. Alternatively, bure (q.v.), of which burel is a diminutive, could mean 'strip, band of cloth' and this may have influenced the sense; this seems to be the origin of the continental Old French verb boureler 'to apply a strip or band of cloth or material, to apply a band, to border' (see Godefroy, Lexique de l'ancien français s.v.). Note also the citation in the present Lexis under bure sense 1 in which that word is equated with Latin benda. Complicating the matter is the existence of Latin burellatus (q.v.), of apparently the same meaning. If that word is not simply a Latinization of the French (it is first attested in Insular Latin at almost exactly the same time), it may be from Lat. 'barratus' (DMLBS barrare, sense 2: 'banded, striped'), + diminutive suffix '-ellus' + corruption of the root vowel a > u, perhaps influenced by 'burel'; the present French and English words would therefore be derived from the Latin. The present word is found in the MED as both berle, a direct borrowing from French into English, and burled, past participle reformulated with an English ending in place of French -é. This may suppose a Middle English verb burl 'to apply a strip, to be decorated with stripes', but no such verb is otherwise attested; ME burl (see burl 1) meant 'to remove burls (i.e. knots of material) from cloth or garments'. The heraldic usage of the word overlaps (and has been influenced by) barry (q.v.) 'having bars' and related terms. See also burlure.
WF: Borrowed into the British Isles
Etym Cog: burlé.
References: